morocco jewish travel

Pilgrimage to Tombs of Jewish Saints (Hiloulot)


Moroccan Jews are unique in their reverence for deceased learned and pious rabbis. Throughout Morocco, there are hundreds of Jewish saints, as these rabbis are called, whose tombs are usually located in Jewish cemeteries. While some Jews regularly visit the saints' tombs to pray, once a year groups of Jews hold a festival, known as a hiloula, at the gravesite. Many hiloulot take place during the holiday of Lag B'Omer, in the spring between Passover and Shavuos.
Hiloulot are events where Jews can return to their native villages or regions and visit with others who have also moved away, either to the major cities of Morocco, or overseas. Each saint has its own followers, who take care of the grave and perhaps a nearby synagogue and arrange the festival. Some of the hiloulot attract thousands of people, from as far away as Israel, the US and Canada. Most are small affairs, however, with only a few dozen people attending.
The main religious purpose of the hiloula is to pray for a good life and the resolution of problems. Jews light candles, touch the memorial stone, and pray at the tomb of the saint. By performing these actions, many Jews believe that these prayers will have more power than those performed in their synagogue or at home. Moroccan Jews will never admit that they are praying to the saint, however. Neither is the saint considered to be an intermediary between human beings and God. Yet, many Jews visit the saint's tomb with the hope that their prayers will be granted. Some saints are believed to be especially powerful, attracting men who would like to get married or women who wish to have children, for example.
Hiloulot are celebrated with lots of food, drink, and music. In some of the larger hiloulot, families rent rooms and gather with friends to feast and party. Orchestras may play Andalusian music. Women offer food and drink to others attending the hiloula, because they believe that doing so is a mitzvah (good religious deed). People drink whiskey, wine and home-made mahia (fig liquor flavored withanise) as they sing Hebrew songs and trade stories.
Often, the caretakers of the saint's tomb use the occasion to collect money for their work. Large candles and other memorabilia are auctioned off to the highest bidder.
Ceremonies at the saints' tombs are often attended by dignitaries, such as the Governor or Caid, who represent the King. Jews use the occasion to publicly proclaim their attachment to the King, and to pray for his good health.
Many of the Jewish saints have been dead for over two hundred years. After the death of a learned and pious Jews, the local community would decide whether to honor his memory by making him a saint. Many of the saints were born in the land of Israel and came to Morocco to collect money for yeshivas with which they were associated. Others were wise men who were sources of inspiration and guidance for members of the community.